'Chinese Chorizo' Honors Blend of Two Cultures in Arizona
“中国香肠”表彰亚利桑那州两种文化的融合
“中国香肠”表彰亚利桑那州两种文化的融合
If the coronavirus pandemic had never happened, Feng-Feng Yeh might not have learned the full history of Chinese Americans in her hometown of Tucson, Arizona.
如果没有发生冠状病毒大流行,叶凤凤可能不会在她的家乡亚利桑那州图森了解华裔美国人的全部历史。
Yeh was a top chef, or cook, in New York City when pandemic-linked business closings ended her job and career plans. She decided to move back to her hometown. She also decided to revisit her passion for public art.
当与大流行相关的业务关闭结束了她的工作和职业计划时,叶是纽约市的顶级厨师或厨师。她决定搬回家乡。她还决定重新审视她对公共艺术的热情。
Looking for ideas, Yeh researched the history of Chinese immigrants in the Tucson area. On the Tucson Chinese Cultural Center website, she learned that Chinese family-owned food stores were a successful industry in the city beginning in the 1900s.
寻找想法,叶研究了图森地区的中国移民历史。在图森中国文化中心网站上,她了解到中国家庭经营的食品店从 1900 年代开始在该市是一个成功的行业。
These food or grocery stores were more than just businesses. They were also lifelines for the area's Mexican American communities. The food stores - also called grocery stores- even started preparing Mexican chorizo. Chorizo is a ground and spiced sausage, or meat from a pig. It earned the nickname "Chinese chorizo."
这些食品或杂货店不仅仅是企业。它们也是该地区墨西哥裔美国人社区的生命线。食品店——也称为杂货店——甚至开始准备墨西哥香肠。香肠是一种磨碎的加香料的香肠,或猪的肉。它赢得了“中国香肠”的绰号。
Yeh said she was "very moved" by the alliance formed between Mexican and Chinese Americans. She described immigration policies set during the same period as "quite racist."
叶说她对墨西哥和华裔美国人之间的联盟感到“非常感动”。她将同一时期制定的移民政策描述为“相当种族主义”。
"I thought that was something that you don't learn in school, especially in Arizona. I thought it was something that should be recognized and shared," Yeh said.
“我认为这是你在学校学不到的东西,尤其是在亚利桑那州。我认为这是应该被认可和分享的东西,”叶说。
Chinese immigrants settling in Arizona were doing so under the 1882 Chinese Exclusion Act, the U.S. government's first race-based immigration policy. Both Chinese and Mexican immigrants faced racism even though they were critical members of the workforce.
定居在亚利桑那州的中国移民是根据 1882 年的《排华法案》这样做的,这是美国政府第一个基于种族的移民政策。中国和墨西哥移民都面临种族主义,尽管他们是劳动力的重要成员。
Older Chinese Americans in Tucson say they have spent years trying to spread knowledge about this history.
图森的年长华裔美国人说,他们多年来一直在努力传播有关这段历史的知识。
Yeh proposed building a 3.4-meter-tall statue of two chorizo sausage links. She recently won financial support through the Tucson Museum of Contemporary Art and the Andy Warhol Foundation. In support for the project, she organized a celebration called Tucson Chinese Chorizo Festival. For the month of October, several local restaurants and food trucks have been serving specials with meat and vegan chorizo.
Yeh 提议建造一座 3.4 米高的两根香肠串雕像。她最近通过图森当代艺术博物馆和安迪沃霍尔基金会获得了财政支持。为了支持这个项目,她组织了一个名为图森中国香肠节的庆祝活动。十月份,几家当地的餐馆和食品卡车一直在提供肉类和素食香肠的特色菜。
Even many locals do not know about Tucson's major Chinese presence.
甚至许多当地人都不知道图森主要的华人存在。
The Tucson Chinese Cultural Center is a large space, at almost 1,400 square meters. It serves as a community center and museum. Established in 2005, it has a multipurpose room, large kitchen, classrooms, and a room with tables for playing the Chinese game called mahjong. The walls are covered with pictures and histories of long-gone Chinese grocery stores. The center also has a YouTube channel that includes a video on Chinese chorizo.
图森中国文化中心是一个很大的空间,近 1,400 平方米。它作为一个社区中心和博物馆。它成立于 2005 年,设有多功能室、大厨房、教室和一间带桌子的房间,用于玩中国游戏麻将。墙上挂满了中国杂货店的照片和历史。该中心还有一个 YouTube 频道,其中包含有关中国香肠的视频。
"A lot of people don't know we exist after 17 years. So, we've been trying to get the word out," said Susan Chan, the center's chief leader.
“很多人不知道我们在 17 年后仍然存在。所以,我们一直在努力宣传,”该中心的首席负责人 Susan Chan 说。
Starting in 1900, Chinese-owned grocery stores succeeded and became an economic force in Tucson. By the 1940s, there were 130 families running more than 100 grocery stores in the city. The number of stores dropped in the 1970s and 1980s as larger food stores moved in and young Chinese Americans sought other careers.
从 1900 年开始,中国人拥有的杂货店取得了成功,并成为图森的一股经济力量。到 1940 年代,该市有 130 个家庭经营着 100 多家杂货店。1970 年代和 1980 年代,随着大型食品店的迁入和年轻的华裔美国人寻求其他职业,商店的数量有所下降。
Allen Lew's father, Joe Wee Lew, opened his first of three stores in 1955. The stores were called Joe's Super Market. Allan Lew began working at the market around the age of 10. He remained in the business until the last store closed after 30 years in operation. He is now 74 years old and a longtime member of the center's board.
Allen Lew 的父亲 Joe Wee Lew 于 1955 年开设了他的三家商店中的第一家。这些商店被称为 Joe's Super Market。Allan Lew 大约在 10 岁左右开始在市场工作。他一直从事这项业务,直到最后一家商店在经营 30 年后关闭。他现年 74 岁,是该中心董事会的长期成员。
Lew and his four siblings grew up serving Mexican and Native American customers. Everyone felt like they "were all a big neighborhood family."
卢和他的四个兄弟姐妹从小为墨西哥和美洲原住民顾客服务。每个人都觉得他们“都是邻居的大家庭”。
In fact, many Chinese grocers would let poor customers pay when they could. "A lot of them get paid like once a month, every two weeks, and they ran out of money," Lew said.
事实上,许多中国杂货店会在可能的情况下让贫困顾客付款。“他们中的很多人每月一次,每两周获得一次报酬,但他们的钱用完了,”卢说。
For the festival, Chinese-made chorizo is being celebrated with inventive dishes that combine Chinese and Mexican cultures.
在这个节日里,中国制造的香肠以结合了中国和墨西哥文化的创意菜肴来庆祝。
A local meat store provided the more than 225 kilograms of meat and plant-based chorizo to restaurants for the festival. Yeh created the vegan recipe. She invited Jackie Tran, a Tucson food writer and owner of Tran's Fats food truck, to work on the real meat recipe.
当地一家肉类商店为节日提供了超过 225 公斤的肉类和植物性香肠给餐厅。叶创造了素食食谱。她邀请了图森美食作家兼 Tran's Fats 食品卡车的老板 Jackie Tran 来研究真正的肉类食谱。
Tran's family is Chinese and Vietnamese. He added spices to the meat including Sichuan pepper, coriander seed and Chinese five-spice powder.
Tran的家人是中国人和越南人。他在肉中添加了香料,包括花椒、芫荽籽和中国五香粉。
For the statue, Yeh is partnering with Carlos Valenzuela, a Tucson-born artist of Mexican and Native American ancestry. Valenzuela's grandfather had had a credit account with a local Chinese grocery store.
对于雕像,Yeh 与出生于图森的墨西哥和美洲原住民血统的艺术家 Carlos Valenzuela 合作。Valenzuela 的祖父在当地一家中国杂货店有一个信用账户。
If the idea of a chorizo statue brings a laugh, that is the way Yeh wants it.
如果一个香肠雕像的想法带来了笑声,那就是 Yeh 想要的方式。
"I think it's eye-catching for tourists to come and recognize that this town is a town that was heavily influenced by Chinese culture, which I don't think a lot of people know," said Yeh, who still needs more money to pay for the project.
“我觉得游客来这里很吸引人,他们认识到这个小镇是一个深受中国文化影响的小镇,我想很多人都不知道,”叶说,他仍然需要更多的钱来支付为项目。
What does Lew, the son of a Chinese grocer, think about the chorizo statue?
中国杂货商的儿子卢对香肠雕像有何看法?
"That's great," Lew said. "I was surprised because I think when you grow up and you've done something all your life here, you don't think it's a big thing."
“那太好了,”卢说。“我很惊讶,因为我认为当你长大并在这里做了一辈子的事情时,你不会认为这是一件大事。”
"But someone outside thinks, ‘This is different. This is neat.'"
“但外面的人认为,'这是不同的。这很整洁。'”