怎么吃温柏，一种被遗忘的水果

Consider the quince: centuries ago, it was the talk of the town, eaten by kings, queens and commoners. Often eaten with wild game, it was just as popular, if not more so, than its cousins apples and pears. With a renewed appreciation for local produce and farmers markets all over the country these days, it seems the time is ripe for a quince revival.

想想温柏:几个世纪以前，它是镇上的谈论话题，国王、王后和平民都吃它。它常与野味一起食用，即使不比它的近亲苹果和梨更受欢迎，至少也和它们一样受欢迎。随着这些天来全国各地对当地农产品和农贸市场的重新重视，温柏复兴的时机似乎已经成熟。

Consider adding quince to your repertoire of fall dishes and desserts. (Photo: Agave Studio/Shutterstock)

Quince is considered native to the Caucasus region and Western Asia, but has made its way all over the world, winning particularly ardent fans in Spain, France and Portugal with its jellies and jams. In fact, the word "marmalade" originally referred to quince jam, thanks to the Portuguese word for quince, "marmelo."

温柏被认为是高加索地区和西亚的特产，但它的足迹遍布世界各地，以其果冻和果酱赢得了西班牙、法国和葡萄牙的狂热粉丝。事实上，marmalade这个词最初指的是quince jam，因为葡萄牙语中quince的意思是“marmelo”。

Once quince came over to the New World, it quickly caught on with colonial women, who made use of its high pectin content by making plenty of preserves. It was not uncommon for a quince tree or two to be planted in the orchards and vegetable gardens of New England colonies.

自从温柏来到新大陆，它很快就受到了殖民地妇女的欢迎，她们利用它的高果胶含量，制作了大量的蜜饯。在新英格兰殖民地的果园和菜园里种一两棵温柏树并不少见。

Don't judge a quince by its outward appearance — it's what's on the inside that counts. (Photo: Golf Bravo [CC by SA 2.5]/Wikimedia Commons)

Today, quince paste is still popular in the Iberian peninsula and Spanish-speaking countries, with dulce de membrillo often served in sandwiches or with Manchego cheese as an after-dinner dessert. The firm, sticky, sweet paste is also a wonderful addition to your cheese or charcuterie boards. Quince also offers a wealth of health benefits: it's high in vitamin C, zinc, iron, copper, iron, potassium and fiber.

今天，温柏酱在伊比利亚半岛和说西班牙语的国家仍然很受欢迎，通常在三明治或曼切戈奶酪作为餐后甜点。这种又硬又粘又甜的糊状物也是奶酪或熟食板的绝佳配料。温柏还提供了丰富的健康益处:它富含维生素C，锌，铁，铜，铁，钾和纤维。

Perhaps the most important thing to know about quince is that you can't eat it raw; unless, of course, you like your fruit hard, woody and astringent. You'll know a quince is ripe once it's fully yellow and its intoxicating fragrance is already in the air.

也许关于温柏最重要的是你不能生吃;除非，当然，你喜欢你的水果硬，木质和涩味。一旦温柏完全变黄，醉人的香味弥漫在空气中，你就知道它已经成熟了。

Perhaps the best part about cooking with quince is the magical transformation of its color and flavor. (Photo: rontav/Shutterstock)

If you want to keep it simple, poaching or stewing it in a sugary liquid is best. It's also a two-for-one, as you'll get tender fruit for baking and a syrup that you'll want to drizzle on just about everything including oatmeal.

如果你想让它简单点，把它浸泡在含糖的液体里是最好的。这也是一个二合一，因为你会得到柔软的水果烘烤和糖浆，你会想要淋在几乎所有的东西，包括燕麦。

Don't be shy with the sugar, as quince is pretty bitter. Then put your own twist on flavors while you stew it — fresh ginger, vanilla beans, rosemary, lemon peels or cinnamon sticks are all welcome additions.

不要怕吃糖，因为温柏很苦。然后在炖的时候加入你自己的口味——新鲜的姜、香草豆、迷迭香、柠檬皮或肉桂棒都是受欢迎的添加物。

Another delightful surprise about quince? The longer you cook it, the prettier it becomes. That gnarled, knobby, homely little fruit will transform into a brilliant salmon-pink with the help of some heat and steam. Quince is also a lovely fruit to leave out on a sunny windowsill, as it slowly releases an intoxicating scent reminiscent of vanilla and apples. Whether you're baking a quince tarte tatin, a jam for your cheese plate, or a savory Moroccan tagine, the quirks of the quince will all be worthwhile once you've had your first bite.

温柏的另一个惊喜是什么?煮的时间越长，越漂亮。在一些热量和蒸汽的帮助下，这种多节、不起眼的小水果会变成明亮的橙红色。温柏也是一种可爱的水果，放在阳光充足的窗台上，慢慢地散发出令人陶醉的香味，让人想起香草和苹果。不管你是在烤温柏，还是在奶酪盘里放点果酱，或者是美味的摩洛哥tagine，只要你吃了第一口，就会发现温柏的独特之处都是值得的。