LV开启新一轮时装界抢座游戏
It might be a spare, Modernist chair carved out on geometric lines or a rich velvet pouf elevated by a gilded frame. But regardless of how they look, this new Paris fashion season is a nonstop game of musical chairs.
它可能是把具有几何线条的简洁的现代主义的椅子，也可能是一把镀着金边、带有天鹅绒坐垫的昂贵的椅子。但是不管它是什么样子，这新的巴黎时装季是一场不停歇的抢椅子游戏。
The dramatic shake-up of brands, exhilarating for fashion’s progress, is unprecedented. And this is not about aging designers handing over a supporting role to someone in the wings. Instead, change at the top is becoming a 21st-century phenomenon, even with the mightiest brands.
这些品牌的戏剧化人事变动是史无前例的，令人为时装的进步感到兴奋。不是老设计师把副手的角色交给身边的某个人。相反，顶层的变动正成为21世纪的常见现象，包括那些最强大的品牌。
There is nothing so big and bold as Louis Vuitton, the cash cow of the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton empire. The arrival of Nicolas Ghesquière, 42, at Balenciaga for 15 years, is the most highly anticipated fashion moment since Tom Ford took over at Yves Saint Laurent 14 years ago — although Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent moment in 2012 came close.
其中最大胆的变动发生在路威酩轩(LVMH)集团的摇钱树路易威登(Louis Vuitton)上。曾在巴黎世家(Balenciaga)工作了15年的42岁的尼古拉斯·盖斯奇埃尔(Nicolas Ghesquière)入主LV是14年前汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)接管伊夫圣罗兰(Yves Saint Laurent)以来时装界最期待的时刻——虽然2012年艾迪·斯里曼(Hedi Slimane)入主圣罗兰时也很引人注目。
The Ghesquière arrival is the more poignant because it marked the departure of Marc Jacobs, 50, after almost 17 years at the helm. He is now concentrating on an initial public offering of his own brand with the encouragement and support of LVMH.
盖斯奇埃尔的到来更加引人瞩目，因为它标志着掌舵近17年的50岁的马克·雅可布(Marc Jacobs)离开了。他现在全心致力于自己品牌的首次公募，这得到了路威酩轩集团的鼓励和支持。
In November, when Mr. Ghesquière’s appointment was first announced, the designer said he would not put down the foundations of a personal brand.
11月份，盖斯奇埃尔的任命首次被宣布时，这位设计师说他不会降低一个个人品牌的底线。
“I am absolutely delighted to make a new proposition at Louis Vuitton. I am so excited, and I think I will be very busy,” the designer said at the time. “I have my playground for a few years now.”
“我当然为能在LV开展新工作而高兴。我特别兴奋，我想我会很忙，”这位设计师当时说，“在未来几年里我有施展才华的地方了。”
This momentous first start at Vuitton will be shadowed by many others: for example, at Schiaparelli, the first ready-to-wear collection from Marco Zanini. Dusting down this historic house, first with a couture collection in January, is a bold step taken by the label’s owner, the Italian entrepreneur Diego Della Valle.
在LV的这个重大的首次启动之后，紧接着将发生很多其他事情：比如，马尔科·扎尼尼(Marco Zanini)在夏帕瑞丽(Schiaparelli)的第一个成衣系列。该品牌的所有者、意大利企业家迪亚戈·德拉·瓦莱(Diego Della Valle)拂去这个历史悠久的服装公司的风尘，在1月份迈出大胆的一步，推出了第一个高级定制系列。
As Mr. Zanini had been at Rochas, his departure left a vacancy now being taken by the Italian designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua.
扎尼尼本来执掌罗莎(Rochas)，他离开后留下的空缺如今被意大利设计师亚历山德罗·德拉夸(Alessandro Dell’Acqua)占据。
Vionnet, which tapped Hussein Chalayan for demi couture in January, will follow up this week with a ready-to-wear collection by Albino d’Amato and Goga Ashkenazi, the brand’s owner.
薇欧奈(Vionnet)1月份挑选侯赛因·卡拉扬(Hussein Chalayan)设计半成衣系列，这周将推出一个成衣系列，设计师是阿尔比诺·达马托(Albino d’Amato)和戈加·阿什克纳齐(Goga Ashkenazi)，后者是该品牌的所有者。
Yiqing Yin, a designer born in Beijing but raised in France, will be showing her first collection for Leonard. The designer won the 2011 First Collections Award at the prestigious Andam competition in France for her own line, which will be presented in Paris this week.
在北京出生、法国长大的设计师殷亦晴将展示她为李奥纳德(Leonard)设计的第一个系列。2011年，在享有声望的法国安德姆(Andam)时装奖竞赛中，这位设计师凭借自己的服装系列获得了首秀奖(First Collections Award)，本周她自己的服装系列也将在巴黎展示。
Ann Demeulemeester, the Belgian designer of poetic and romantic collections played out to the music of Patti Smith, has left the company she founded in the ’80s. But she will not be replaced; her collection will be handled by her long-serving team.
比利时设计师安·迪穆拉米斯特(Ann Demeulemeester)曾伴随着帕蒂·史密斯(Patti Smith)的音乐展示诗意、浪漫的服装系列。如今她离开了自己在20世纪80年代创立的公司。但是她不会被取代，长期为她服务的团队将接管她的服装系列。
Other labels already have grabbed a new designers.
其他品牌已经找到了新设计师。
At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena who joined the company last August, is hoping to rebuild the brand. And in late 2012, Sonia Rykiel named as Geraldo da Conceiçao as its creative director, a designer who had been in charge of Vuitton’s women’s wear and in similarly senior posts at Miu Miu and Yves Saint Laurent.
朱利安·多塞纳(Julien Dossena)去年8月加入帕高(Paco Rabanne)公司，该公司希望借此重建自己的品牌。2012年底，索尼亚·里基尔(Sonia Rykiel)任命杰拉尔多·达·孔塞桑(Geraldo da Conceiçao)担任创意总监，这位设计师曾主管LV的女装，并曾在缪缪(Miu Miu)和伊夫圣罗兰担任类似的高级职位。
