06 欧美时尚达人新潮流：买旧衣服穿
买旧衣服穿，在过去是大忌。有自尊心的时尚拥趸都不会坦承自己买过别人穿过的二手衣服。但如今早已今非昔比，现今追求的是八成新，只过了几个时装季的二手装往往以很优惠的价格就能淘到手。
狂热的买家如今摇身一变成了精明的卖家，他们借助快速发展的代销网站便捷处理自己的累赘东西。在过去，他们的处理办法不是捐赠就是通过实体店转卖，既麻烦又费时。而规模空前的eBay在线拍卖市场曾是其唯一选择。
The RealReal创始人兼CEO朱丽·温赖特（Julie Wainwright）注意到了市场存在的巨大缺口。运营五年来主要面对美国市场的The RealReal已成功售出250万件物件。香奈儿、爱马仕、普拉达、劳力士以及路易威登是最受欢迎的品牌。零售价的60-70%归委托人所有。
“Second-hand used to have a stigma.Today it has none: worldwide last year $200bn dollars of personal luxury products went into the market,” says Wainwright.“There are multiple reasons — one is a generational shift, one is a green thing — when you buy something previously owned, you're recycling, it's a circular economy — the other is the internet and access to information.”
“买二手时装在过去是件丢脸的事，如今则大不一样了：去年全球个人奢侈品的销售额高达2000亿美元。”温赖特说，“买卖二手货原因多种多样——其中之一是出于更新换代，第二个原因是为了环保：购买二手货属于回收利用，是循环经济；另一大原因是因特网的广泛应用以及获取信息的渠道异常便捷。”
美国市场由The RealReal主宰，而欧洲市场的主导者是法国电商Vestiaire Collective。据该电商的创始人之一范妮·莫藏（Fanny Moizant）透露：网店创建于2009年，起初只有朋友与其它网站提供的3000件二手奢侈品。如今，网站销售的二手奢侈品超过了40万件，2015年的利润高达7800万欧元。莫藏认为2008年金融危机是二手奢侈品网店井喷式发展的“催化剂”：
“I saw the marketing phenomenon that was the fashion bloggers.In France they were called the Recessionistas, because they appeared at the height of the crisis and were finding a smart way of reselling their own pieces on blogs and making money, even though there was no real system.”
“我当初看到各大时尚博主这类营销现象。在法国，这些人被称为‘不景气时尚达人'，因为他们出现在金融危机最严重的时候，找到了一种在博客兜售自己用过的奢侈品并且赚钱的妙招，尽管当时并没有实际销售平台。”
这些网店成功的秘诀缘于完全模仿奢侈品购买体验。
“We have a deep appreciation of the brands, the products, the quality and the craftsmanship,” says Wainwright.“Ebay was sad.The romance was broken.It lacked integrity.So our goal was to maintain the brands' integrity.”
“我们对各大品牌的内涵、旗下产品、质量以及做工了如指掌。”温赖特说，“Ebay是个伤心地，破坏了消费者购置奢侈品的浪漫心情。Ebay没有诚信。所以我们当初设立的目标就是维系各大时尚品牌的诚信。”
莫藏对此也深有同感：
“Before us, there was a second-hand market but it lacked this — we brought in two big pillars.The first was trust.The second was curation — the internet is so vast, so we do the job of selecting the best pieces.We have a team of stylists, who each day go through about 4,000 pieces and vet them digitally and pick the best.We also authenticate with a whole other team of experts.”
“在我们网店成立之前，曾有个二手奢侈品交易市场，但它缺少两样东西，而这两样东西后来成为我们的立身之本，其一是诚信，第二是产品管理——因特网功能强大，所以我们挑选最好的产品。我们有专门的设计师团队，他们每天在网上浏览4000件时装，并做出甄别，择优选择。我们还聘请另一专家团队对其进行鉴定。”
无论是The RealReal还是Vestiaire Collective，都没把自己视作旧货交易场所。
“We want people to feel like the pieces are in stores now — that it's modern,” says Wainwright, “We go beyond e-commerce into being a social network for fashion.It's so rare to find that in a second-hand website — and that's what women and girls love; sharing their love of fashion with other fashionistas.”
“我们希望消费者感觉它们就是门店销售的产品，让消费者感受到那种时尚快感。”温赖特说，“我们突破了纯电商领域，变成了时尚社交网站。这在二手奢侈品网店显得凤毛麟角——这正是女性朋友喜欢我们网店的原因所在：与其他时尚达人分享时尚的爱好。”
而消费者的购物习惯将越来越取决于二手时装市场。温赖特最引以为豪的是，自己正逐渐影响奢侈品市场以及正改变消费者的购物模式——尤其是让消费者对特定款式与流行品牌的真实价值一清二楚。有些大品牌的吸引力难以为继，在网店的定价与销售额量就已一目了然，这可能会出乎业界意料。然而品牌内部的人事变动对于自身二手品的热销与否也会有巨大作用。
“Two-and-a-half years ago, Gucci had really bad resale value,” offers Wainwright, citing the recent appointment of Alessandro Michele as a turning point.“Now it's right up there — it's big.They reinvigorated the brand and people got excited, so now we can even sell old Gucci, from pre-Michele, particularly the logo stuff — it has value again.”
“两年半以前，古驰的二手货售价不尽人意。”温赖特主动说道，并说古驰最近聘请亚历山德罗·米歇尔出任创意总监成为其转折点。“如今古驰又成了高大上的抢手品牌，它又焕发出勃勃生机，消费者对其趋之若鹜，因此现在甚至米歇尔之前几位创意总监设计的古驰，尤其是带标识的那些，都容易出手——它又变得价值不菲了。”
她认为二手奢侈品的买卖很好地教育了消费者，让其增强了信心、增长了见识：
“Our shoppers look to check the resale value of things.They do notice if a brand has no resale value and move away from it.When I meet consignors they always say ‘You've changed the way I shop.'”
“我们的消费者期望检验二手奢侈品的价格。他们真的注意到：如果该品牌没有二次销售价值，他们就会移情其它品牌。我与委托人见面时，他们总是这样说：‘你改变了我的购物模式。'”
词汇总结
stigma ['stɪgmə]
n.[植]柱头；耻辱；污名；烙印；特征
Second-hand used to have a stigma.
买二手时装在过去是件丢脸的事。
curation [kjuːreɪʃən]
指在中国文化创意、艺术文化领域，通过创意构思、资源整合（人脉、文化艺术、渠道、媒体）等智慧劳动，链接中高端品牌、文化、艺术项目与社会大众的关联，使活动、展览、演出发挥高效系统专业的经济、社会、文化效应。
The second was curation — the internet is so vast, so we do the job of selecting the best pieces.
第二是产品管理——因特网功能强大，所以我们挑选最好的产品。
authenticate [ɔː'θentɪkeɪt]
vt.鉴定；证明…是真实的
We also authenticate with a whole other team of experts.
我们还聘请另一专家团队对其进行鉴定。
fashionista [,fæʃn'istə]
n.疯狂追求时髦与流行的人
That's what women and girls love; sharing their love of fashion with other fashionistas.
reinvigorate [riːɪn'vɪgəreɪt]
vt.使再振作；使复兴
They reinvigorated the brand and people got excited, so now we can even sell old Gucci, from pre-Michele, particularly the logo stuff — it has value again.
如今古驰又成了高大上的抢手品牌，它又焕发出勃勃生机，消费者对其趋之若鹜，因此现在甚至米歇尔之前几位创意总监设计的古驰，尤其是带标识的那些，都容易出手——它又变得价值不菲了。
