听力课堂TED音频栏目主要包括TED演讲的音频MP3及中英双语文稿，供各位英语爱好者学习使用。本文主要内容为演讲MP3+双语文稿:时尚应该赞美所有体型——勇敢且毫无歉疚，希望你会喜欢！

【演讲者及介绍】Becca McCharen-Tran

贝卡·麦克伦特兰正在创造一个世界。外形、尺寸、性别表达、年龄、能力水平、种族和种族在t台上和其他地方都是被赋予力量的。

【演讲主题】时尚应该赞美所有体型——勇敢且毫无歉疚

【中英文字幕】

翻译者Ivana Korom 校对者Krystian Aparta

00:12

As fashion designers, our decisions havethe power to change our culture. We choose who is cast in our runway shows andcampaigns, and ultimately, who is celebrated and considered beautiful, and whois not. Having this platform is a responsibility. One that can be utilized toexclude people or to empower others.

作为一名时尚设计师，我们所做的决定拥有改变文化的力量。我们决定谁来走台步，谁来拍广告，最终决定谁会被赞美，谁才是美丽的标准，而谁又与这些标准擦肩而过。拥有这个平台其实是一种责任。这个平台可以被用来排挤一些人或者赋能另一些人。

00:38

Growing up, I was obsessed with fashion. Ipored over all different types of fashion magazines at my local Barnes andNoble. To be fashionable was to be tall, skinny, with long, shiny hair. That'swhat I saw as the ideal, and it was reinforced everywhere I looked. And to behonest, it still is. I wanted to be like the models, so I stopped eating. Itwas a dark time in my life; my eating disorder consumed me. All I could thinkabout was counting every single calorie, and waking up early before schoolevery day so I could run a few miles. It took me years to finally release thegrip that the eating disorder had over my life. But when it did, it freed up somuch brain space to think about what I was truly passionate about.

成长过程中我曾一度沉迷时尚。我在附近的连锁书店里，翻遍了各种各样的时尚杂志。要想变得时尚，就意味着要身型高挑，苗条，拥有亮丽的长发。这是当时我心目中的理想类型，目之所及的一切也加强了我这种想法。实话说，现在也是。我希望看起来更像模特，因此我开始绝食。那是我人生中最黑暗的时刻；进食障碍吞噬着我。我脑海里只有一件事，就是计算我所吃下的每一个卡路里，每天上学前更早起来，这样就可以跑上几公里。我花了好些年才终于放过自己，不再让进食障碍控制我的生活。当我真正释放的时候，我的大脑也清净了许多，能好好想想真正让我热情澎湃的是什么。

01:27

For so long, the fashion industry hasworked hard to set an ideal of beauty that celebrates thin, young, white,cisgender, able-bodied models as the ideal. It's impossible not to be bombardedwith images of models that have been photoshopped to where there's not a singlepore, fat roll or stretch mark in sight. You don't need to look hard to findexamples. This definition of beauty is damaging, dangerous and destructive, andwe need to explode it immediately.

长久以来，时尚界极力去设立一个有关美的理想，那个歌颂纤细，年轻，白皙，顺性别，健美的模特的理想。几乎不可能避开经过精修的模特图片的狂轰乱炸，在这些图片中根本看不见任何肥肉或者皱纹。这样的例子随处可见。如此对美的定义是有害的，危险且具备破坏力，我们必须立刻消灭这个定义。

01:58

(Applause)

（掌声）

02:02

I'm glad you agree.

我很高兴看到大家站在同一战线。

02:03

(Laughter)

（笑声）

02:05

One of the worst things I've realized overthe years is that my experience with disordered eating is not an anomaly. Infact, it's par for the course. I think there's a study that says 91 percent ofwomen, and likely those of all gender identities, are unhappy with the way theylook. It's unforgivable that we live in a society where it's normal or expectedfor teenagers to grow up hating themselves. We've been fighting for fatacceptance and women's body autonomy since the '60s. And there has beenheadway. We have plus-size models like Ashley Graham and musicians withbody-positive messages, like Lizzo, breaking into the mainstream. Thank God.

这些年我体会到的最糟糕的事情之一，就是我那段进食障碍经历并不被认为是反常的。事实上，没什么好意外的。我记得某项研究表明，91%的女性，以及很有可能那些全性别身份的人，对自己的外在感到不开心。不能原谅的是，我们活在一个认为青少年怀着讨厌自己情绪长大是正常不过，或者正中下怀的社会。从 60 年代起，我们一直为接受肥胖和女性身体自主权而奋斗。并取得了一定的进步。我们现在有像阿什莉·格林汉姆这样的大码模特以及传递着身体自爱信息的音乐人，比如说 Lizzo，闯进了主流。感谢上帝。

02:45

(Laughter)

（笑声）

02:47

There's brands like Area that have releasedcampaigns without any Photoshop retouching. But we're still inundated withunrealistic expectations. I love this quote by Lizzo, who said, "Bodypositivity only exists because body negativity is the norm."

有像Area这样的品牌他们做的广告从不做任何修图。但是我们仍然被不切实际的期望所淹没。我很爱 Lizzo 所说的这句话：“身体自爱之所以存在是因为身体不自爱是社会规范。”

03:05

So how do we change the stigma aroundlooking different or not fitting into this narrow definition of beauty? Ibelieve it's by celebrating beauty in all different forms, bold andunapologetically. But many fashion designers continue to reinforce this narrowdefinition of beauty. From the way they are taught in school and into the realworld, they drape on mannequins that are only size four, or sketch on bodies thatare super stretched out and not anatomically proportioned. Different-sizebodies aren't taken into account during the design process. They're not thoughtof. So who are these designers designing for?

那么我们该怎样才能改变因长相与众不同或未能符合狭隘的美的定义所带来的羞耻感？我相信这需要从赞美所有不同形式的美开始，大胆而恣意。但是许多时尚设计师还在强调这种狭隘的美的定义。从他们在学校被教导开始到他们进入现实世界，他们只在4号身形的人体模型上做裁剪，或者只用那些超级修长的身体做素描，且所用的比例并不符合解剖学。在设计的过程中，不同大小的身体并不被纳入考虑范围，甚至从未出现在设计师的脑海里。那么这些设计师在为谁设计呢？

03:42

But the conversation around exclusivity infashion doesn't begin and end with size. It's about seeing people of alldifferent gender expressions, different ability levels, different ages,different races and ethnicities, celebrated for their own unique beauty. In myown work as a fashion designer, I started a brand called Chromat, and we'recommitted to empowering women, femmes and nonbinary #ChromatBABES, of allshapes and sizes, through perfectly fit garments for every body.

但是对于时尚的排他性的讨论并不因肥瘦而起，更不会就此而终。这是有关于如何看待拥有不同性别表达的人，不同能力，不同年龄，不同种族的人，因其独特的美而得到赞美。我自己作为一名设计师，创立了一个叫Chromat的品牌，我们致力于通过完美合身的服装为不同身形，不同肥瘦的，女性，妇女及非二元的 #ChromatBABES 赋能。但是对于时尚的排他性的讨论并不因肥瘦而起，更不会就此而终。这是有关于如何看待拥有不同性别表达的人，不同能力，不同年龄，不同种族的人，因其独特的美而得到赞美。我自己作为一名设计师，创立了一个叫 Chromat 的品牌，我们致力于通过完美合身的服装为不同身形，不同肥瘦的，女性，妇女及非二元的 #ChromatBABES 赋能。

04:10

Swimwear has become a huge focus for me,because of the power that this single garment can have over the way people feelabout themselves. We wanted to take our focus on celebrating all body types toa garment that's fraught with insecurity. On our runways, you see curves,cellulite and scars worn proudly. We're a runway show, yes, but we're also acelebration. I didn't start designing 10 years ago with the mission to changethe entire industry. But the models we cast at the time, who just happened tobe my friends who had begged to be in my shows, were so radical to some people,and, unfortunately, still are different or strange to some, that it became ahuge part of what we're known for.

我的一大关注点在泳装，因为这个服装单品拥有改变人们对自己看法的力量。我们想要把对于赞美所有身形的关注转移到充满不安全感的服装上来。在我们的 T 台上，你能看见丰满的，肥胖的，带有伤疤却自信满的模特。没错，我们只是 T 台走秀，但是同时也是一场庆典。10 年前我开始从事设计的时候，并没有怀着要改变整个行业的使命。但是当时我们所挑选的模特恰巧是我的朋友，恳求着走我的秀，却对一些人态度非常激进，即使现在也依然对一些人很冷淡，漠不关心，我们之所以出名，主要就是因为这件事。

04:52

However, inclusivity means nothing if it'sonly surface level. Behind the scenes, from the photographer, to the castingdirector, to the interns, who is making the decisions behind the scenes is justas important. It's imperative to include diverse decision-makers in theprocess, and it's always better to collaborate with different communities,rather than trying to speak for them. And this is an important piece of thepuzzle that many young designers may not think about when they're firststarting their careers, but hiring a plus-size or a transgender photographer,or a woman of color as your casting director, or a black makeup artist -- hey,Fatima Thomas -- who intimately understands how important it is to be able towork with all skin tones: it's essential to creating a holistically inclusiveoutput, like this one.

然而，如果只是流于表面，所谓的包容性根本不存在。在镜头背后，从摄影师到选角导演，再到实习生，这些在镜头背后做决定的人同样重要。在决策过程中让多样的决策者参与进来至关重要，与不同的社团协作总是好过尝试着为它们代言。这是很多年轻的设计师在开始他们的事业的时候从未想到过的很重要的一个谜题，但是聘用一个大码模特或者一个跨性别摄影师，或者一个有色女性作为你的选角导演，又或者一个黑人化妆师—— 嗨，法蒂玛·托马斯 —— 这些人都切身体会到能和不同肤色的人共事是多么重要： 去创造这样一个全方位包容的输出是必不可少的。

05:44

As a fashion designers that do a lot ofswim, we wanted to rewrite the rules around having a bikini body. So we cast ateam of babe guards to enforce guidelines around inclusion and acceptance atthe pool. Instead of "no diving" and "no running," howabout "celebrate cellulite," "body policing prohibited,"and "intolerance not tolerated." And this was enforced by babe guardsMama Cax, Denise Bidot, Geena Rocero, Ericka Hart and Emme, all activists intheir own right.

作为已经做过很多泳装设计的设计师，我们想改写有关比基尼身材的规则。因此我们挑选了一组宝贝卫士来强化泳池边的有关包容性和接受度的准则。不要“禁止跳水”，不要“禁止奔跑”，而是“赞美丰乳肥臀”，“禁止监管身材”，“孰不可忍”如何？这场运动有宝贝卫士玛玛·卡克斯，丹妮斯·比多，吉娜·罗切罗，艾瑞卡·哈特以及艾姆, 这些积极分子亲自参与。

06:17

I've always felt it was important to show arange of different bodies in our runway shows and campaigns. But it actuallywasn't until recently that we were able to expand our size range in a majorway. We first launched our curve collection five years ago; we were so excited.But when it launched, it fell flat. Nobody was interested. None of ourdepartment stores stocked above a size large, and if they did, it was somewhereelse in the building entirely. In fact, one time our sales team said, "Youknow, it's so cool you have trans models and curve models on the runway -- Ilove what you're doing. But when the buyers come in to see the collection formarket, they want to be sold a dream, they want to see something that theyaspire to be." Implying that our models weren't that.

我一直都认为在我们的 T 台和广告中展示一系列不同的身材是很重要的。但是实际上，直到最近，我们才能够大范围地扩大我们的码数范围。五年前，我们刚发行我们的丰满系列；我们异常兴奋。但是发行后，反响平平。没有人对这个系列感兴趣。我们的百货门店里没有一家进大码的货，哪怕进货了，全部被搁置在大楼里的某个角落。事实上，一次我们的销售团队说道：“在你的T台上有跨性别模特，丰满的模特，真的挺酷的——我很欣赏你所做的一切。但是当买家来看我们给他准备了什么产品的时候，他们想要被推销的是一个梦想，他们想看到他们能变成怎样。”这暗示着我们的模特根本不是这样的。

07:01

But I've realized it's so much moreimportant to open up this dream to more people. I want the consumer to knowthat it's not your body that needs to change -- it's the clothes.

但是我认识到，更重要的是向更多的人展示这个梦想。我想让消费者明白需要改变的并不是你的身体——而是服装。

07:12

(Applause)

（掌声）

07:18

There needs to be more fashion options atall sizes and in all retailers. So finally, in 2018, Nordstrom actually placedan order up to 3X. And this was a huge game changer for us to have a majorretailer invest in adding these units, so we could go to the factory -- now wego up to 4X, which is about a size 32. Having that investment helped us tochange and realign our entire design process. We now have different-sizedbodies to sketch and drape on in the studio. And if more fashion schools taughtthese skills, more designers would have the ability to design for all bodies.

我们需要更全的码数，所有零售商提供更多的时尚选择。终于，在 2018 年，诺德斯特龙下了个码数达到 3X 的订单。这简直一举改变了我们的形势，有了这个大型零售商在这些服装上注资，我们可以去工厂——现在我们把码数提升到 4X，也就是 32 码。这笔投资帮助我们改变并重新调整了我们整个设计流程。我们现在在工作室有了不同大小的人体模型来画素描和做裁剪。如果有更多的时尚学院来教授这些技巧的话，会有更多的设计师能为所有的身形做设计。

07:56

(Applause)

（掌声）

08:02

So as fashion designers, it's our job toutilize our platform to explode this narrow and restrictive definition ofbeauty. My goal is that one day, teenagers growing up don't feel the samepressure that I did to conform. And I hope that our work contributes to thefashion industry's opening up to celebrate many different identities.

作为时尚设计师，利用我们的平台去消灭这种狭隘的，限制多多的美的定义是我们的职责。我的目标是终有一天，青少年在成长过程中不再有我当年的压力。同时我希望我们的努力能使得时尚界敞开心胸，去接受各种不同的人。

08:23

Thank you.

谢谢大家。

08:24

(Applause and cheers)

（掌声与喝彩）