牛仔裤的可持续性越来越强
Last year the Ellen MacArthur Foundation released a set of guidelines called "Jeans Redesign." Written for denim manufacturers, it lays out suggestions for making the world's most popular pants more sustainable. These guidelines include:
去年，艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会发布了一套名为“牛仔裤再设计”的指导方针。这本书是为牛仔制造商写的，它列出了让世界上最受欢迎的裤子更可持续发展的建议。这些指导方针包括:
· Designing so that a pair of jeans can withstand at least 30 washes (some critics say this sets the bar far too low)
牛仔裤至少耐30次洗涤的设计标准(有些批评人士说，这设定的标准太低了)
· The garment includes clear product care information on labels
衣服的标签上有明确的产品护理信息
· Contains at least 98 percent cellulose fibers made from regenerative, organic or transitional farming methods
含有至少98%的纤维素纤维，由再生的、有机的或过渡的耕作方法制成
· Does not use hazardous chemicals, conventional electroplating, stone finishing, sandblasting, or potassium permanganate in finishing
没有使用危险化学品，常规电镀，石材抛光，喷砂，或高锰酸钾抛光
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When Treehugger first reported on these guidelines in 2019, they were brand new and had not yet been applied practically. But over the past year, the companies that pledged initial support have been working hard to turn them into reality. There are nearly 70 participants in total, and now this fall several companies have launched jeans for sale that adhere to the guidelines, proving that this can work.
当“环保主义者”在2019年首次报道这些指导方针时，它们是全新的，尚未得到实际应用。但在过去一年中，承诺提供初步支持的公司一直在努力将其变成现实。总共有近70个参与者，今年秋天，几家公司已经推出了符合指导方针的牛仔裤，证明这是可行的。
A five-minute documentary on YouTube outlines the process to date, and how the above-mentioned brands have approached their own jean redesigns. They share a collective sense of frustration with the fashion industry's current "take, make, waste" approach – "Take from the earth, make a product, and waste it" – and a strong sense of obligation to reverse it.
YouTube上一段五分钟的纪录片概述了到目前为止的设计过程，以及上述品牌是如何进行牛仔裤重新设计的。他们对时尚行业目前的“获取、制造、浪费”的做法——“从地球上获取，制造产品，然后浪费”——都有一种共同的挫败感，也有强烈的义务去逆转这种做法。
As Kelly Slater, founder of Outerknown says , "You can build things in a great way with a good cause and a good intention, but at the end of the day, if it ends up in landfill, then there is a problem." He's right, which is why each of the participating brands has a program to receive used items at the end of their life, to recycle and repurpose into new denim.
就像Outerknown的创始人凯利·斯莱特说的那样，“你可以怀着一个良好的动机和良好的意愿以一种伟大的方式建造东西，但归根结底，如果它最终被扔进了垃圾填埋场，那就有问题了。”他是对的，这就是为什么每个参与的品牌都有一个项目，在它们寿命结束时接收使用过的物品，并将其回收再利用，制成新的牛仔布。
At the risk of sounding overly negative, I do find these individualized return schemes to be somewhat impractical. While I understand the positive intent behind them, is it realistic to expect people to send back single items of clothing to separate brands for recycling? Usually, wardrobe clean-outs happen in a fit of passion (at least they do in my house) and the last thing I want to do is sort through everything to determine whether a company I supported years previous has a special recycling program. Sometimes the labels are so worn that I can't even read the original source.
冒着听起来过于消极的风险，我确实发现这些个性化的回报计划有些不切实际。虽然我理解它们背后的积极意图，但指望人们把一件衣服单独寄回各个品牌进行回收，现实吗?通常，衣柜清理是在一时冲动之下发生的(至少在我家里是这样的)，而我最不想做的事情就是把所有的东西整理一番，以确定我几年前资助的一家公司是否有特殊的回收计划。有时标签太旧了，我甚至无法阅读原始资料。
What's needed is a more comprehensive, streamlined approach to garment recycling, where all items eligible for recycling can be sent and redistributed back to their original manufacturers. Otherwise, it may prove too inconvenient for individual customers to follow through. What this would actually look like, I don't know, but perhaps facilities could be set up according to the textile type, e.g. denim, cotton, wool, etc.
现在需要的是一种更全面、更精简的服装回收方式，所有符合回收条件的物品都可以被送回原厂，重新分配给原厂。否则，对个人客户来说，跟进可能会很不方便。我不知道这到底会是什么样子，但也许可以根据纺织品类型来设置设施，比如牛仔布、棉花、羊毛等。
Furthermore, some brands will be waiting for a very long time to get the minimum quantity they need to experiment with proper recycling. I encountered this when researching Finnish raincoat company Reima. They said, "We’re currently planning the first recycling pilot with selected project partners, which can then be carried out when enough jackets are returned to us." But that could take years!
此外，一些品牌将等待很长时间，以获得他们所需的最低数量，以试验适当的回收。我在研究芬兰雨衣公司Reima时就遇到了这个问题。他们说:“我们目前正计划与选定的项目合作伙伴进行第一次回收试点，待回收的夹克足够多时，我们就可以开始回收了。”但这可能需要数年时间!
